Out and About with Julian, our Resident Restaurant Critic
One seldom finds a genuinely innovative dining experience these days; an establishment that stands out from the crowd of restaurants peddling the same tired old formulae. I count myself fortunate to have found just that, and in the most unlikely of locations. Hidden away in a leafy suburb, far from the trendy quarters of the city centre, I stumbled across The Dining Hall: an absolutely breath-taking gem in a sea of conformity.
A late morning stroll took me through a suburban landscape of semi-detached homes, corner shops and play parks. All was tranquil and uneventful until my nostrils were assailed by the most tantalising of aromas. Following my nose, I rounded a wall of privet and espied the source. A low building in the 70s brutalist style spread out before me. I could only admire the boldness of the architecture, and gasp at the unapologetic cubism of the construction. On hearing the unmistakable murmur of happy diners, without further ado, I made my way inside.
The interior décor echoes the stunning architecture of the exterior building: daring retro styling, complete with swathes of linoleum and splashes of Formica, cleverly teamed with plastic seating. I was charmed. The Dining Hall clientele are universally young and fashionable, if strangely short. The service concept here is truly revolutionary - the old clichés of waiting staff and table service have been overturned in a master-stroke of stunning simplicity. It is the patrons who wait in a queue here, each with their own charmingly retro tray, to choose from a range of culinary delights.
Eagerly joining the line, it was evident from the stir my presence caused that the other diners were unused to someone of my comparatively advanced years and greater physical stature in their midst. Nevertheless, the line wound forwards in an orderly fashion and I found myself gazing upon a dazzling display of culinary wizardry. As I debated what to sample first, a member of the serving staff, displaying a perspicacity seldom seem in today’s restaurants, proceeded to make a flawless selection on my behalf.
The simply titled ‘Pie, peas and mash with gravy’ for an entrée was followed by a dessert of ‘sponge and custard’. I was transported to gastronomic nirvana! Not since my youth have I enjoyed a plate so rich in folk history yet brimming over with modern élan. Each morsel was a pure delight. My voluble exclamations of wonder obviously made an impression as, when I attempted to settle the bill, they would not hear of it and were only too glad to help me into my coat and send me on my merry way with a friendly clip around the ear. Of course, I cannot guarantee my readers the same favours, but must commend to you the unique experience of lunch in Little Sodbury Academy Dining Hall.
